Istanbul from cruise ship May 2012

Istanbul

I experienced one of the most wonderful visits to one of the most historically significant cities in the world.  I chocked as much into a day and a half as is possible and found every minute invigorating.  For 2 days, we visited Istanbul, the only city in the world, which straddles both Asia and Europe (split in two by the Bosporus Straights).

A special aspect of the visit was having spectacular views (from our ship) overlooking the Bosporus Straight (and Golden Horn) of key sites including Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and The Blue Mosque with its 6 minarets.  I had breakfast and dinner overlooking this spectacular water view.

Because Istanbul IS a port city, we had easy access from the ship.  Within minutes (or a short tram ride) a cruise passenger can enjoy major sites.  On our second day, I took the tram from Trophane to Eminonu, to begin my tour. I loved the frenetic energy of the city and felt comfortable touring around on my own, day 2.

Touring around, I felt the glory/power of this once mighty city that served as capital of two of the world’s most powerful empires Byzantine (for 900+ years) and Ottoman Empire (for 600+ years).  The Ottoman Empire was an economic, military, and religious powerhouse that ruled a huge chunk of the world spanning, Europe, Asia, and Africa from the 14^th till the 20^th century.

As we docked in Istanbul in the early morning, we were greeted by a robust and lively folk band of musicians dressed in traditional Turkish decorative uniforms.  I was able to zoom in and capture great close ups of them right from my private balcony.

I met my private tour group (of threee couples I met online) in our usual spot, across from the tour desk on deck 3.

We joined our tour guide, Ozlem (ozlemaydin33@gmail.com), who directed us to our bus, whose driver took us directly to the site-filled area: Sultanahmet.  Sultanahmet is the Old Town, where the city’s top landmarks are concentrated---including Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, The Blue Mosque, The Basilica Cisterns, Hippodrome Square, and the nearby The Grand Bazaar.

Here are some comments/reflections about my time in Istanbul:

We only used the bus twice: at the beginning and end of our day.  Traffic was very congested (a new James Bond movie was being filmed) and the Old Town is best explored on foot.

Sultanahmet Park, situated between the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, provides a great photo opp for both grand structures.

The Hagia Sophia is one of the most impressive buildings in the world and the crowning achievement of the Byzantine Empire.  Constructed by Emperor Justinian during the 6^th century, it remained the largest basilica in the world for centuries and the remains the worlds 4^th largest ever built.  It served as the Patriarchal church of Constantinople nearly a millennium until the Ottomans captured Constantinople in 1453.  Although the Ottoman Turks were Muslim, they were so captivated by the cathedral’s grand scale and beauty, they chose to preserve rather than destroy it.  Instead, they converted it to a mosque adding minarets, covering Christian mosaics and frescoes with Islamic artwork, and adding an imam’s pulpit and mihrab facing Mecca, among its many modifications.  After the secular Republic of Turkey was established, the Hagia Sophia was converted to a museum in 1936.  As a result, many (well-preserved), original Christian frescoes, which had been plastered over with whitewash, were uncovered and are now on display.  The eight iconic 24-ft wide leather medallions with Arabic calligraphy continue to dominate the apse, center and arches above the imperial gate. 

 

The Blue Mosque was the first mosque outside Mecca to have six minarets, likely a display of the Sultan’s wealth.  In order to avoid upstaging the central mosque in Mecca, which had six minarets, Sultan Ahmet I financed construction of a  seventh minaret there.  Construction of this mosque marks the beginning of the Ottoman Empire’s decline because it exhausted the treasury that was never restored due to a succession of wars and incompetent rulers.

I saw the famous Medusa heads in the underground Basilica Cistern (the vast, dimly-lit, former underground water reservoir, built in the 6^th century).

The Waterway intersection of The Golden Horn, Bosporus Straight, and Sea of Marmara is one of the busiest in the world.  There was a continuous flow of ferry, barge, commercial ship, cruise ship etc. traffic.  With its spectacular views, it’s no wonder that Sultan Mehmet The Conqueror chose to this prime location on which to build his Topkapi palace.

We had a delectable and inexpensive lunch at Buhara 93 (Nakilbend Caddesi 15-near the Hippodrome).  I ordered the chicken Kebab with rice and salad for 8 or 9TL.  They have open wood-fired ovens where you can watch men baking the famous lavas (flat bread).  (It really is mentioned in Rick Steve’s guide, as their sign says)

 

I found the vendors at the Grand Bazaar (and Spice market) to be in-your-face aggressive.  The whole experience can be a bit overwhelming at first, but, the loud, colorful, crowded covered malls grow on you after a while.  The opening line in Turkish bazaars is always, “Where are you from”?  I am always delighted when vendors cannot guess where I am from since they are generally skilled at discerning the heritage of tourists. My favorite line was, “How can I hassle you today?”.  My favorite sign was “Real Fake Watches Sold Here”. There are more than 4000 stalls in a maze of streets in the grand bazaar selling carpets, ceramics, jewelry (gold, silver, precious/semi-precious stone, byzantine replicas), textiles, copperware, mosaics, spices, Turkish handicrafts, clothing, water pipes, Turkish delights, Evil eye merchandise, and of course, souvenirs, and more. 

see video

 

On my next visit, I will go to the bustling Taksim Square and Istikal Cadessi (Street) via the tram and funicular.

Dont Be The Ugly American Overseas!!!!

7 Signs You're An Ugly American-- By Caroline Morse with additons by me, Karla Scott

‎Here is a great list (published October 2012) of indicators you are the UGLY AMERICAN while travelling abroad.  I read this novel a few years ago and realized these attitudes frustrated me so, they motivated me to launch my intercultural consulting business: Global Ways.

 

What would you add to the authors list?  See my 3 additions at the end.

Bad news, fellow Americans. The rest of the world thinks were terrible travelers. It's so bad, in fact, that the term "Ugly American" has become shorthand for any tourist that sticks out or misbehaves abroad. (Don't blame us, we didn't coin the phrase.) Read on to see if you fit the stereotype.

Attire

White sneakers, a fanny pack, a baseball hat ... and a Canadian-flag patch sewn onto your backpack. This uniform can make a tourist stand out--and not in a good way. Wear what's comfortable, but do make an effort to blend in with what the locals wear, especially when it comes to covering up in more modest countries. We've also seen many Americans utilize the Canadian flag to pretend they're not from the US while traveling. Don't be ashamed of our country -- be an example of what's good about it. Let your behavior and attitude leave a positive impression when you travel instead of pretending to be from somewhere else.

English Only

We're not saying that you have to be fluent in a country's native language in order to visit it--but you should at least make an effort to learn key phrases and words. Knowing how to say things like "Hello" and "Do you speak English?" in the local language can go a long way. American tourists are notorious for just repeating English questions louder when a nonspeaker doesn't understand, so don't do that. Try to use hand gestures, phrasebooks, or even apps to get your point across instead.

Complaining About Portions

To the rest of the world, it's not just Texas where everything's bigger -- it's America. It doesn't help the stereotype when Americans complain about small portion sizes while dining out abroad. Think of smaller portions as a way to sample more dishes or to reevaluate your own eating choices.

Demanding to Know the Price in Dollars

It's fine to do the math in your head or on a calculator, but don't ask a merchant how much their wares are in "real money." Get a rough idea of the conversion rate before you leave and do the mental math instead, or download a currency-converter app for your smartphone. You'll be shopping like a local in no time.

Excessive Patriotism

We can't even count the number of times we've heard a fellow American tourist brag about "how America does it." It's great to discuss cultural differences, but if you're pointing out customs that you think are flawed or not as good as "how we do it here" then you're missing out on the whole idea of travel.

Trying to Recreate America Abroad

You're traveling for a reason--to experience new things! So don't automatically seek out the nearest Starbucks when you're overseas. Sample the local restaurants as well as the cool fast-food chains that we don't have here. Remember that amenities we take for granted (like air-conditioning or Western-style toilets) aren't available everywhere, so be prepared to adjust to a new standard of living temporarily.

Overpacking

Americans have a reputation for being "oversized" abroad, but your luggage doesn't have to be. Overpacking can be a clear indication of an American tourist, so don't struggle up the stairs of your European hotel with a huge suitcase if you don't have to. Downsize to a backpack or small suitcase--if you run out of clothing, you can always go shopping while you're on vacation, and then you'll really look like you belong. Or, do laundry at a Laundromat near your hotel--it's the perfect chance to mingle with locals.

My additions: Make the unfamiliar familiar by learning about the culture in advance.  To enhance your experience overseas, I recommend:

 

Do your homework

Be insatiably curious.  Go to your local bookstore and use the internet to research the other culture’s history, geography, key symbols, tourist attractions, national dishes, popular sports, non verbal communication rules, leaders and celebrity culture.  Study the local map including the mass transit or metro map and the area surrounding your hotel.  You will feel more comfortable exploring and communicating when you have gone the extra mile to learn something about your new culture.  The best part is that by taking an interest in the other culture, your actions will convey genuine respect.  Your efforts will be appreciated by most (if not all) whom you meet.  It will set you apart from many Americans who don’t bother to learn something about the other culture.  Remember, people all over the world know U.S. popular culture, government, history and many even speak English.  Isn’t it reasonable for us to make the effort to meet them at least half way?

 

For a crash course in local customs and etiquette, I recommend the easy-to-read Culture Shock series.  They are compact guides (250 pages) that provide a comprehensive and accurate portrayal of culture in more than 35 countries, with practical tips on how to be effective there.  They are well-researched, authentic, and entertaining.  You can order Culture Shock online from all leading book sellers.  

 Read a novel and watch films set in that country

Actually, a novel about a young American living in Paris is what inspired me to study in France my junior year of college.  I highly recommend you indulge in literature that teaches history as well as some contemporary culture. 

For example, before traveling to Viet Nam recently, I read The Quiet American, by Graham Greene, and later I rented the film. While near the Chinese border in northern Viet Nam, I read The Good Earth by Pearl Buck. It’s an intriguing tale of the struggles and prosperity of a rice Farmer living in China during the pre-revolutionary period.  As we rode through the rice fields of Viet Nam, I felt I was a part of the farmer’s world.  Touring around Saigon, I saw all the landmarks that were featured in The Quiet American. 

In short, the literature and films set in that country enhanced my total travel experience.

Learn a few commonly used words and phrases

Rest assured you do not need to enroll in a 3-month immersion class.  Most of the world accommodates English speaking tourists.  In fact, it is the second most spoken language, behind Mandarin, in the world.   Your experience can be greatly enhanced by showing basic respect.  You can accomplish this by learning some common courtesy expressions such as hello; goodbye; thank you; and please and one of my favorites: “Where are the toilets?”  “How much is that ________?” also comes in very handy when bargaining.

You will be amazed by how instantly connected you feel when upon arrival, someone says hello in their language and you can respond in the same language or when they say thank you, you can reply appropriately.

I strongly urge you to refrain from bursting into a conversation leading with English words.  Instead (or what is more respectful is to) always first ask “Do you speak English?”

You can listen to a basic language tape daily before you go that provides language basics including numbers,  useful questions, shopping terms, hotel/taxi/ and airport expressions, and dining phrases.  

 

Istanbul

Istanbul

I experienced one of the most wonderful visits to one of the most historically significant cities in the world. I chocked as much into a day and a half as is possible and found every minute invigorating. For 2 days, we visited Istanbul, the only city in the world, which straddles both Asia and Europe (split in two by the Bosporus Straights).

A special aspect of the visit was having spectacular views (from our ship) overlooking the Bosporus Straight (and Golden Horn) of key sites including Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and The Blue Mosque with its 6 minarets. I had breakfast and dinner overlooking this spectacular water view.

Because Istanbul IS a port city, we had easy access from the ship. Within minutes (or a short tram ride) a cruise passenger can enjoy major sites. On our second day, I took the tram from Trophane to Eminonu, to begin my tour. I loved the frenetic energy of the city and felt comfortable touring around on my own, day 2.

Touring around, I felt the glory/power of this once mighty city that served as capital of two of the world’s most powerful empires Byzantine (for 900+ years) and Ottoman Empire (for 600+ years). The Ottoman Empire was an economic, military, and religious powerhouse that ruled a huge chunk of the world spanning, Europe, Asia, and Africa from the 14^th till the 20^th century.

As we docked in Istanbul in the early morning, we were greeted by a robust and lively folk band of musicians dressed in traditional Turkish decorative uniforms. I was able to zoom in and capture great close ups of them right from my private balcony.

I met my private tour group (of threee couples I met online) in our usual spot, across from the tour desk on deck 3.

We joined our tour guide, Ozlem (ozlemaydin33@gmail.com), who directed us to our bus, whose driver took us directly to the site-filled area: Sultanahmet. Sultanahmet is the Old Town, where the city’s top landmarks are concentrated---including Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, The Blue Mosque, The Basilica Cisterns, Hippodrome Square, and the nearby The Grand Bazaar.

Here are some comments/reflections about my time in Istanbul:

We only used the bus twice: at the beginning and end of our day. Traffic was very congested (a new James Bond movie was being filmed) and the Old Town is best explored on foot.

Sultanahmet Park, situated between the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, provides a great photo opp for both grand structures.

The Hagia Sophia is one of the most impressive buildings in the world and the crowning achievement of the Byzantine Empire. Constructed by Emperor Justinian during the 6^thcentury, it remained the largest basilica in the world for centuries and the remains the worlds 4^th largest ever built. It served as the Patriarchal church of Constantinople nearly a millennium until the Ottomans captured Constantinople in 1453. Although the Ottoman Turks were Muslim, they were so captivated by the cathedral’s grand scale and beauty, they chose to preserve rather than destroy it. Instead, they converted it to a mosque adding minarets, covering Christian mosaics and frescoes with Islamic artwork, and adding an imam’s pulpit and mihrab facing Mecca, among its many modifications. After the secular Republic of Turkey was established, the Hagia Sophia was converted to a museum in 1936. As a result, many (well-preserved), original Christian frescoes, which had been plastered over with whitewash, were uncovered and are now on display. The eight iconic 24-ft wide leather medallions with Arabic calligraphy continue to dominate the apse, center and arches above the imperial gate.

The Blue Mosque was the first mosque outside Mecca to have six minarets, likely a display of the Sultan’s wealth. In order to avoid upstaging the central mosque in Mecca, which had six minarets, Sultan Ahmet I financed construction of a seventh minaret there. Construction of this mosque marks the beginning of the Ottoman Empire’s decline because it exhausted the treasury that was never restored due to a succession of wars and incompetent rulers.

I saw the famous Medusa heads in the underground Basilica Cistern (the vast, dimly-lit, former underground water reservoir, built in the 6^th century).

The Waterway intersection of The Golden Horn, Bosporus Straight, and Sea of Marmara is one of the busiest in the world. There was a continuous flow of ferry, barge, commercial ship, cruise ship etc. traffic. With its spectacular views, it’s no wonder that Sultan Mehmet The Conqueror chose to this prime location on which to build his Topkapi palace.

We had a delectable and inexpensive lunch at Buhara 93 (Nakilbend Caddesi 15-near the Hippodrome). I ordered the chicken Kebab with rice and salad for 8 or 9TL. They have open wood-fired ovens where you can watch men baking the famous lavas (flat bread). (It really is mentioned in Rick Steve’s guide, as their sign says)

Ozlem (our tour guide) and Karla

I found the vendors at the Grand Bazaar (and Spice market) to be in-your-face aggressive. The whole experience can be a bit overwhelming at first, but, the loud, colorful, crowded covered malls grow on you after a while. The opening line in Turkish bazaars is always, “Where are you from”? I am always delighted when vendors cannot guess where I am from since they are generally skilled at discerning the heritage of tourists. My favorite line was, “How can I hassle you today?”. My favorite sign was “Real Fake Watches Sold Here”. There are more than 4000 stalls in a maze of streets in the grand bazaar selling carpets, ceramics, jewelry (gold, silver, precious/semi-precious stone, byzantine replicas), textiles, copperware, mosaics, spices, Turkish handicrafts, clothing, water pipes, Turkish delights, Evil eye merchandise, and of course, souvenirs, and more.

On my next visit, I will go to the bustling Taksim Square and Istikal Cadessi (Street) via the tram and funicular.